Fixing more stuff on the cr-10 max

Replacement of the main cable run

In my ongoing saga of fixing the BL Touch, I decided to buy and replace the main cable which goes from the motherboard to the gantry. This involved buying the cables and opening up the printer.

Replacing the cable itself was straight forward. It was jsut the removal of the two screws for the plastic bit that holds it in place, the 10 screws at the bottom and then just unclip the cabling. I did accidentally manage to pull off the cable guide for one of the Z stop, which did cause issues.

Once complete and rebuilt, the BLTouch became a lot more reliable.

New bed setup

The bed on the CR-10 Max is 450mm by 450mm. That's a large area and a slight deviation over that distance is going to be amplified. For completeness, I also ordered a replacement sticker for the original bed, which if nothing else made the printer look a lot tidyer.

On my Ender 5, I have a Carborundum bed, which is coated glass. I searched online for one but came up empty. While searching around, I did find another solution that others had used. This involved using a large glass bed to provide the accuracy of the flatness of the layer. On top of this, I got a PEI flexible spring plate, with magnetic base. In order to actually attach the new bed, I had to remove the original bed clips and replace them with anodised steel ones.

In order to make the clips fit better, cut out holes from the magnetic sheet. This actually made the clips fit better, as well as the bed plate as it went over the clips. To check the levelling, I ran the bed levelling plugin "bed visualiser" on octoprint. The bed was better levelled, but on a slight angle. That lead me on to the next section.

Levelling to Z-axis

The CR-10 Max has 2 motors to control the Z-axis. The bed one a printer needs to be parallel with the bar carrying the head. In order to make sure the bed was parallel, I printed out this print.

This print when clipped to the Z-axis allows for careful positioning of the Z-axis in relation to the bed. This required me to both align the motors and also tighten up the screws to hold the Z-axis in place. Once complete, I then proceeded to the last and final section.

Reset Z offset

Resetting the Z offset is straight forward on the CR-10 max and this was done last to make sure that any of the preceding changes didn't then push out this important setting. Once complete, my printer became a lot more reliable and I could actually get some decent prints out of it.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

If you have found this post useful, please consider donating.